Photos by Marieke van der Velden

I expected the lush greenery but not the streets teeming with people walking, walking everywhere on the edges of the well-tarmacked roads (ahem)….

There is a fuel crisis the driver explains as we pass by a long queue of cars waiting for petrol which might or might not arrive…

There are women carrying items on their head wearing African garb but also young women in Western clothes. The climate is hot, humid and raining slightly.

On the flight here I had already became used to being almost the only white person on board, which is rather disconcerting… This is how refugees in Malta must feel all the time I thought. On the final flight however we were joined by a group of Americans with Missions 4 Jesus emblazoned on their pale blue T-shirts. Hailing from North Carolina their southern twang quickly made itself heard. Their missionary work takes them to the rural areas where they live among the locals and for many of them this was a return visit…they were greeted with shouts and cheers from
fellow missionaries who were waiting for them on the airport balcony – a scene which made me smile as it reminded me of our old airport.

Here in Lilongwe, however, I was once again in the minority. This is the capital, and the largest city, but Caucasians are still looked at curiously as if to say “what on earth are you doing here?” The politeness and quiet nature of the people is charming while the deference by the hotel staff is almost embarrassing.

Like Malta, Malawi obtained independence from Britain in 1964 and everyone speaks some form of English while all signs are also in English.

Above all this is a place of contradictions: we have had numerous power cuts (no comment) because of the fuel shortage so Internet access is erratic. There is an acute bottled water shortage as well…and yet I watched the American show X Factor last night on satellite TV.
There were other unexpected surprises.

What do you do when you arrive a full day before the other journalists in an African country and it’s Sunday?

Why you go to a shopping mall of course…

Even if I had ended up without toiletries I could have bought every brand I use here. There is poverty here, however. I’m told the people have miserable wages and not many can afford to buy what is in the shops.

Meanwhile, today two fellow journalists arrived..but their luggage didn’t…